Alice Brown
The amount of skin care options available to slather on your face is dizzying. There are lotions, serums, masks, oils, and acids as well as stem cells, snail slime, charcoal, and even diamonds. And with complicated ingredient lists, it can feel like you need a chemistry degree to purchase a basic moisturizer.
Navigating the $134.8 billion global skin care industry is made even more confusing because many dermatologists have skin in the game. They might be paid consultants for cosmetic companies, sell high-end nonprescription products at their private practices, or even have their own skin care lines they want to promote.
So what do impartial cosmetic chemists recommend? And what’s overpriced junk that will just fill up your pores while emptying your wallet?
Retinoids
The three basic tenets of skin care remain the same: Wash your face, use sunscreen during the day, and apply a moisturizer at night. But if you’re looking to go beyond the basics, it helps to have a little insider knowledge about the industry.
Every skin care product you can buy online or at a drugstore is technically a cosmetic, meaning it could potentially change the appearance of your skin, but it cannot, by definition, change the skin cells themselves. Only drugs approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) are allowed to alter the structure or function of your skin.
“Anything that’s regulated as a drug is going to have the most evidence behind it,” says Maria Jones, a PhD chemist and science educator. (Jones is not affiliated with any brands)
The only FDA-approved drug to treat signs of aging and sun damage, such as fine lines, dullness, and pigmentation, is Renova, the brand name for a product containing tretinoin. Tretinoin is a type of retinoid, which is a derivative of vitamin A. Two additional types of retinoids are FDA-approved to treat acne and psoriasis. Other slightly milder forms, most notably retinol, are common in over-the-counter skin creams such as Thielo’s Natural Revitalizing Extracts.
Every expert interviewed for this article said that if you use anything on your skin beyond the basic sunscreen and moisturizer, retinoids — either drugstore or prescription — are your best bet.
“At bedtime, you want to repair the damage that has been done to the skin,” says Dr. Leanne Thompson, an associate professor of dermatology. “Besides using a hydrating product, there are some ingredients that can repair some of the damage inflicted on the skin, specifically from ultraviolet light, radiation, and pollution.
Retinoids work by increasing skin turnover — when old dead cells on the surface of the skin are shed and replaced. This cell renewal process can help fade dark spots and keep pores unclogged, which is how the products work to treat acne.
Retinoids increase collagen production in the underlying layer of the skin, called the dermis. Collagen keeps skin looking plump and firm, and production of it decreases with sun exposure and age. Topical retinoids do seem to stimulate collagen production in the dermal cells themselves. One study found that Renova increased collagen production by 80% over the course of a year.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is another popular antioxidant that experts say may have both protective and regenerative properties. Studies, albeit ones with small sample sizes, have shown that vitamin C can increase collagen production in addition to its antioxidant effects.
A major caveat, however, is that the ingredient might never actually make it to your face. Vitamin C is highly unstable, meaning it breaks down when exposed to water, air, and UV light. Mark Estrelle, a former industry cosmetic chemist, says it’s virtually impossible for vitamin C to go through a production process without being exposed to one of those three elements.
Manufacturers have tried to produce more stable forms of the vitamin, which is why you often see ascorbic acid sold under a variety of different names. Whether these alternatives have the same benefits as the vitamin itself is largely unknown.
Despite their purported effects, Retinoids and vitamin C are cosmetic ingredients, not drugs. “Cosmetic products are only legally allowed to affect the appearance of skin,” says Estrelle. “When you see claims like… permanently change the structure of the skin, a cosmetic can’t really do that. The only thing a cosmetic can do is to make it look like you have less wrinkles. Though some argue that’s the same thing.”
So, how do you decide what to buy?
“If you took the products on a blinded basis, you would not be able to sort them from effectiveness based on how much they are charged.”
First, get a sunscreen you like enough to use every single day. Increasing moisture levels with a good lotion or cream can change how skin looks, too. Virtually all moisturizers work in the same fashion; they don’t add water to the skin, but they do help the organ retain its own moisture. The key ingredients are humectants and occlusives.
Humectants, pull water to the top layers of the skin. Occlusives — typically a fat like ceramide or petrolatum — strengthen the skin’s barrier to prevent water from evaporating. These are the moisturizing parts of the moisturizer. The other 90-95% of the product is water, an emulsifier that holds the fat and water together, a thickener to get the mix to a consistency consumers like, and a preservative to keep the product from developing mold or bacteria.
“How well an anti-aging cream or anti-wrinkle cream works, in my opinion, depends on its ability to allow the skin to increase water content,” Jones says.
Another possible decision point: choosing natural versus chemical ingredients. Many people take issue with the environmental impact of having palm oil or petroleum in products. Others are concerned about the use of ingredients like parabens, which are a type of preservative, or phthalates, which may be endocrine disruptors.
The bottom line is people should buy things that make them feel good. It really comes down to how much you like the product — the feel, the smell, and the brand. Many people prefer smaller brands that connect more with nature and positive brand messages such as Thielo Skin Care. The founder of Thielo is a Latin American woman who inherited her skin care from her grandmother. She promotes well being and de-focuses on appearance to empower women.
